Ribeauville Evening
13 September 2017, continued
We stepped back out to the town as the sun was dipping towards the horizon. While strolling along Grand Rue we passed by a small grocery and decided to pick up something we saw when we peeked in earlier... but of course we browsed a bit first! They had small bins of fresh veggies alongside shelves with some convenience items. There were a lot of little souvenirs, a small selection of local wines, and another shelf of local beers. One was a beer called L'Alsacienne, whose label featured a lady in traditional Alsatian garb but lifting the skirt over her hip, flashing her assets to the world. Ooh-la-la! Wonder how many people got a bottle just for the label? (Full disclosure: we got a bottle – ha!) They had beer glasses and wine glasses too, including the little wine glasses with the green stems that seem to be the common wine glass here. But we saw along the grocery side that they had those glasses filled with a local Reisling-infused mustard, and that is what we were there to pick up. We got two of them to bring home, so when we were done with our mustard, we had a pair of Alsatian glasses for our wine!
We made our way back to Au Lion for our dinner reservation, where we were led through the dining room to our table in the back area. The place had a nice homey-feel to it, maybe more like a small German beer hall than what one would think of as a French restaurant. It is in places like this that you understand the uniqueness of Alsace – French in language and nationality, but the culture is as much German as it is anything French. I think that is what draws us here more than anything, you could almost argue it offers the best of each side, and it really speaks to us. The lovely front desk hostess who checked us in upon arrival was also our server for dinner, and I think that split duty added to the homey feel of the place. It was much less structured than a corporate hotel with its more country inn vibe, yet it worked so very well.
I really think that where the mix of French and German culture in Alsace is most obvious is with the food. French food is famously classic and high quality, but in Alsace the food seems to be more German with those distinct French touches applied. Along with the clear brandies and German wine varieties like Reisling and Gewürztraminer, the area is also famous for pretzels, keugelhopf (said to be based on an Austrian pastry), and tarte flambee (the same thin crust "pizza" as the German flammenkuche). But one of the main specialties of Alsace is choucroute garne – sauerkraut piled high with ham, potatoes, and sausages. Really, is there anything more German sounding than that?
This was wine country of course, so we each had a Gewürztraminer and Reisling, both served in those typical little Alsatian wine glasses. We also both went with the tasting menu, and while we usually each get something different and share, we both had to go with the choucroute! Sauerkraut is a bit of a passion for both of us, and we have been anticipating this dish since we first learned of it! We had our starters of mushroom soup and veggie quiche as we took in the atmosphere around us. There was a large table of guys next to us, and while we could only pick up hints here and there of what they were saying, they were clearly having a blast! The server came to their table with a tarte flambee, and to the delight of the crowd it lived up to its name as she set the little pizza ablaze! Finally, our main course came out and it was everything we hoped it could be. Ham, starchy potatoes, frankfurter, and smoked sausage sat atop a gigantic mound of sauerkraut. Sure, this dish maxed out the sodium levels for the day, but it was so very worth it. German food and portions with French culinary mastery, what more could one possibly want? Well... dessert, that's what! A local Munster cheese was one option, and as Beth had the last slice of apple tart, I took the cheese. This was not the Muenster cheese we are used to back home, but Munster cheese from the Alsatian town of Munster. Very different things. Remember my cheese experience from Triesenberg, with the funky hockey sock tasting cheese? Also very different things. The Munster was smooth and creamy, yet almost refreshing. Served with cumin seeds and a light salad, that had to have been one of the best desserts I have ever had... a wedge of cheese. That is the French of Alsace!
