Achill Island and the Abandoned Village
24 September 2018
Off the west coast of County Mayo, right across from Ballycroy National Park, is Achill Island. The largest of Ireland’s islands, Achill is mostly peat bogs scattered with mountains that meet the ocean in dramatic rocky cliffs. While it is technically an island in the Atlantic Ocean, Achill sits right next to the mainland separated only by a little passage in the Achill Sound. A small bridge connects the mainland with the island, so no ferry needed here!
Achill is known for its rugged landscape, its archaeological sites, and its clean natural beaches. It was the beach we were going to see first!
We stopped at an area called Dugort Beach, a small little stretch of sand along the northern end of the island. We climbed down the little grassy hill to the beige sand and made our way toward the water. It was a very natural beach, and despite the sandy shore that looks like a nice beach blanket and umbrella spot, there was none of that happening here. Maybe it was too cold. Still, the sand was scattered with rocks and tons of these tiny shells, and of course the strings of seaweed washed ashore. I especially loved the way the water cut these little veiny patterns in the sand as it retreated back to the sea. We sat there for a bit, sifting through the shells and rocks, the entire beach to ourselves. We’ll take a beach like this one over a crowded beach blanket spot any day!
Not too far down the road was a site I was really looking forward to seeing. It was marked early in my research and was a prime reason for coming out to Achill. For our second stop we made our way to Slievemore to find an entire abandoned village sitting in ruin!
The Slievemore Abandoned Village is a whole village of cottages built along the rise of a mountain that were abandoned and left to ruin. It is not just a couple old buildings scattered about, or a few ruins here and there... Slievemore is a giant site, an entire village of close to one hundred cottages and farms! Researchers have identified many of the standing buildings and the sites that likely once had buildings or farms, and they sit sloping the width of the mountain almost like a road gradually making its way down the slope. Most buildings are in heavy ruin, the thatched roof and any interiors long gone, but many of the stone walls still stand. It is amazing to step back in history like this, to see these old cottages and knowing that before the famine, this was a thriving village with a lot of people!
We walked along the ruins, joining the sheep as we went through the old village treading cautiously over the swampy ground. Footsteps were placed carefully as the wet, muddy slope was fairly dangerous at points, and we weren’t looking to take a tumble down the mountainside! We were able to step into many of the old buildings, and you could really feel the history of where you were. I think the fact that it is not just one empty cottage, but tons and tons of them, that really give this place its feel. One empty building could have just been left by its owner, but a whole village is another thing entirely. The effects of the famine really hit home in that place, and the feeling of stepping through those old stone cottages that were once people’s homes is something beyond words. We wandered through the village as we made our way back down the mountain. It was truly an awe-inspiring place!
We drove away from the Slievemore ruins still feeling the chills as we headed towards Keel Beach, the third stop on our Achill Island adventure!
Keel Beach is a wide, sandy beach looking out over the sea to the south. The view of the cliffs and rugged mountains over the ocean were nothing less than magnificent, and we just stood in awe of the sight that sat before us. The waves were crashing against the shore as we walked along the firm packed sand, watching people running their dogs along the beach. We walked a while along the length, just marveling at the view of the Cathedral Rocks and the Menawn Cliffs across the water. This was to be our last spot on Achill before heading back to the mainland, and we made sure to savor the amazing view!
