Seljalandsfoss
8 July 2019
Coming down from the Golden Circle, we connected with Iceland’s Route 1. Also known as the “Ring Road”, Rt 1 essentially circles the entire island more or less along the coast. In the northeast it comes a bit more inland, but along the south and southeastern parts of the island it follows the shoreline. From this point onward, we are going to spend a majority of our time following this road as we encircle Iceland.
Coming down from the Golden Circle and following Rt 1 toward the East, Seljalandsfoss waterfall is one of the first main natural wonders you encounter. The waterfall itself is rather close to the main road, making for an easy and obvious stop as you follow Rt 1, but also making a popular stop for tour groups and busses. We expect a few of these stopping points close to the Golden Circle and the city to be busy with tourist crowds, but even still some of these amazing sights are just too good to miss!
The trail to Seljalandsfoss starts downriver, so as you approach the falls you see the towering cliffside and plummeting water rise high before you. Standing at 60 meters (almost 200 feet), this is the first impression of Seljalandsfoss, and it is a captivating sight. The flow over the cliffside is not very broad, but the ribbon of water is both beautiful and powerful as it makes its plunge to the little pool below. The sheer rocky cliff stands as a rugged wall, glistening wet from the mist. The river that Seljalandsfoss flows into is so small; it’s a bit funny to see such a calm, little stream resulting from such a powerful show!
As you come close to the falls, the trail narrows and climbs a bit up the rocky cliff on a mound of brilliant green grass. Standing on the trail, you look down into the pool of water at the base of the falls. We were getting soaked! The streams of water coming away from the falls in the wind, the splash up from the pool below, and the mist from the power of the water are all filling the air around us. Taking pictures was a difficult process, as I needed to quick fire a shot immediately after wiping down the lens, hoping to get the picture before it was covered in spray again. It was a battle between getting a great shot and protecting the camera from a good bit of water, and the slippery rocks we stood on weren’t helping things!
Seljalandsfoss is an amazing view from the face, but the real draw is that the trail encircles the water through a small cave behind the falls! I was always fascinated by the idea of caves behind a waterfall, a nice secluded space with a curtain of water to separate you from the outside world. I’ve read about them and imagined them, but I’ve never actually seen one in person! Super excited! We followed the slippery trail up the grassy mound to the cliff wall as it jutted back and under the falls. We were still getting soaked, the spray even more intense along the cliff than it was by the pool. We followed the path down into the cave, the inner walls of rock displaying an intricate pattern and covered in damp moss. The cave smelled fresher than I expected. We looked out from behind Seljalandsfoss, watching the water fall into the pool below, spraying us with mist and blocking our view of the outside world.
Climbing up the other side of the falls was a challenge, as the rocks were steep, uneven, and slippery with spray. We worked our way out, and found ourselves again in front of the waterfall, crossing a little wooden bridge over the calm stream that gives no hint of the power that forms it. We stood and watched the water falling over the cliff a bit longer, away from the spray and happy we wore our raincoats. It is almost mid-July- the height of summer- but we are soaked and the cool air cuts right through us. Back by the parking area, we stopped at the little café for some coffee and a cup of the traditional Icelandic Meat Soup, a warming finale before heading on our way.
